Lucile Labels: History and How to Date Them
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Lucile was the dressmaking house of Lucy, Lady Duff Gordon (1863 to 1935), a leading designer of the first two decades of the 20th century, known for soft, romantic tea gowns. The branch named on the label (London, New York, Paris or Chicago) helps date a piece, because each opened and closed at known times.
Company history
Sources differ on the London opening: the Vintage Fashion Guild (VFG) gives 1891 for Lucile, Ltd., while our Edwardian hub gives 1893 (citing Wikipedia). The VFG records branches in New York (1910), Paris (1911) and Chicago (1915). Lucile dressed high society, the dancer Irene Castle and the stage, including The Merry Widow in 1907 and Ziegfeld's Follies. After the First World War her style fell out of step, and the branches closed: Chicago in 1921, New York in 1922, London in 1924 and Paris in 1933.
Label timeline
| Label or clue | Approximate dates | What it tells you |
|---|---|---|
| Lucile, London | 1891 or 1893 to 1924 | The original house |
| Lucile, New York | 1910 to 1922 | American branch |
| Lucile, Paris | 1911 to 1933 | The last branch to close |
| Lucile, Chicago | 1915 to 1921 | Short-lived branch |
What it helps date
- Lucile tea gowns belong to the Edwardian and 1910s periods; both hubs list Lucile among the leading houses.
- Check a famous label against dated examples: designer label fakes.
Sources
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