Hermes Labels: History and How to Date Them
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Hermès was founded in Paris in 1837 as a saddlery workshop and grew into the strongest name in luxury resale, best known for the Kelly and Birkin bags and silk scarves. Scarf designs are often reissued and bags are made in the same styles for decades, so dating a vintage Hermès piece needs more than the name.
Company history
The Vintage Fashion Guild (VFG) records that Thierry Hermès founded the company as a saddlery in 1837, and it later expanded into leather accessories, silk and ready-to-wear. The Kelly bag was named after Grace Kelly in the 1950s and the Birkin, named for Jane Birkin, was introduced in the 1980s. The first silk carré, designed by Robert Dumas, appeared in 1937. Ready-to-wear designers have included Jean-Paul Gaultier (2003 to 2010), Christophe Lemaire (2010 to 2014) and Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski (from 2014).
Label timeline
| Label or clue | Approximate dates | What it tells you |
|---|---|---|
| Saddlery and equestrian goods | From 1837 | The original business |
| Silk carré | From 1937 | Nothing earlier; designs are often reissued in new colourways |
| Kelly name | From the 1950s | Named after Grace Kelly |
| Birkin | From the 1980s | Not a vintage-era style before then |
| Gaultier ready-to-wear | 2003 to 2010 | Modern clothing |
What it helps date
- Our designer label fakes guide notes carrés are screen-printed, contemporary ones measure 90 by 90 cm, and a "rare vintage" scarf claim needs checking against the design's issue history. The VFG also shows a fake 1970s Hermès label.
- High-value bags sell best with authentication: where to sell vintage, auction houses for costume.
Values
Our hats and handbags values guide puts ordinary vintage Kelly 32 and 28 bags at about $2,600 to $3,500 at recent auctions (Barnebys), pristine modern Kellys at $14,000 to $33,000 (Vintage Bag Value), and cites Rebag's 2025 Clair report that Hermès bags retained an average 138 percent of retail value. Prices are estimates as of 2026.
check sold prices for hermes vintage kelly bag on eBay
Sources
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Guides that mention Hermès
- Auction Houses That Sell Vintage Costume and TextilesWhich auction houses sell antique costume, couture and vintage fashion, what each accepts, how consigning works, and when auction beats selling online.
- How to Spot Fake Designer Labels on Vintage ClothingTell a genuine vintage designer piece from a counterfeit, licensed product or adaptation by checking the label, construction, fabric and history.
- Vintage Hat and Handbag Values: Hermès, Chanel, Coach, Leiber and More2026 price ranges for vintage handbags (Hermès, Chanel, Coach, Leiber, mesh, Lucite) and hats (Stetson, Daché, Schiaparelli), from sold data.
- What Makes Vintage Clothing Valuable? The 8 Value DriversWhy one vintage piece sells for $20 and a similar one for $2,000: age, label, rarity, condition, size, provenance and demand, with 2026 sold prices.
- Where to Sell Vintage Clothing in 2026Compare eBay, Etsy, Depop, Vinted, Poshmark, The RealReal, consignment and auction houses by fees, audience and the vintage pieces each sells best.
Related
- Auction Houses That Sell Vintage Costume and TextilesWhich auction houses sell antique costume, couture and vintage fashion, what each accepts, how consigning works, and when auction beats selling online.
- How to Spot Fake Designer Labels on Vintage ClothingTell a genuine vintage designer piece from a counterfeit, licensed product or adaptation by checking the label, construction, fabric and history.
- Vintage Hat and Handbag Values: Hermès, Chanel, Coach, Leiber and More2026 price ranges for vintage handbags (Hermès, Chanel, Coach, Leiber, mesh, Lucite) and hats (Stetson, Daché, Schiaparelli), from sold data.
- Where to Sell Vintage Clothing in 2026Compare eBay, Etsy, Depop, Vinted, Poshmark, The RealReal, consignment and auction houses by fees, audience and the vintage pieces each sells best.