Levi's Labels: History and How to Date Them
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Levi Strauss & Co. has made riveted denim since the 1873 rivet patent, and its 501 jeans and trucker jackets are the most collected vintage denim in the world. Levi's changed its tab, patch, rivets and fabric at documented points, so a pair can usually be dated to within a few years by reading those features together.
Company history
The Vintage Fashion Guild (VFG) records that Levi Strauss, a San Francisco dry goods merchant, and tailor Jacob Davis were granted a patent for riveting work pants on May 20, 1873. The XX waist overall received the lot number 501 in 1890. Levi's introduced Lady Levi's in 1934 and its first bell-bottoms, the 646, in 1969. Our Levi's authentication guide dates the Red Tab to September 1, 1936 on 501s and July 1, 1937 on jackets, citing the Levi Strauss & Co. archives, and the batwing logo to 1967. On the end of US production, our guide gives 2002 for the last US plant, while the VFG gives 2003 for the closure of the San Antonio factory.
Label timeline
| Label or clue | Approximate dates | What it tells you |
|---|---|---|
| Exposed rivets on back pockets | Before 1937 | Pre-war |
| Red Tab | From September 1, 1936 (jeans) | No tab may mean earlier, or a removed tab |
| "LEVI'S" on one side of the tab only | About 1936 to 1952 | Early tab |
| Hidden back-pocket rivets | About 1937 to the mid-1960s | Mid-century |
| Painted arcuate, no crotch rivet (S501XX) | About 1942 to 1947 | Wartime restrictions |
| Leather patch | Before the mid-1950s | Later patches are card-like |
| Orange Tab | From the 1960s | Fashion cuts such as flares |
| Big E ("LEVI'S") | Before 1971 | Necessary but not sufficient: reissues copy it |
| Small e ("Levi's") | 1971 onward | Post-1971 |
| Redline selvedge outseam | To about 1984 (some guides say 1985 or 1986) | Original-run selvedge |
| Single-digit or letter button stamp | Mid-1970s or earlier | Factory code, use with other clues |
| Three-digit button stamp | Typically 1980s to 2002 | Factory code; "555" is Valencia Street |
What it helps date
- The full method, including care labels and reissue traps, is in our Levi's authentication guide and date by labels.
- The tab change of 1971 is a quick check in our 1970s hub.
- Levi's Vintage Clothing (LVC) reproductions copy the Big E, selvedge and patch: see reproduction vs antique.
Values
Our vintage denim values guide gives 2026 sold ranges (California Vintage Buyers and Underpriced): 501XX of 1947 to the mid-1950s $700 to $2,500; Big E 501s $540 to $1,600 wearable (eBay median $300); redline selvedge 1971 to about 1983 $200 to $1,000; 1970s to early-2000s Made in USA $40 to $150 worn and $299 to $899 deadstock with tags. Jackets: Type 1 $2,000 to $8,000 worn, Type 2 $800 to $1,500, big E Type 3 $150 to $2,000+, small e Type 3 $50 to $300. Modern offshore 501s have a median of about $26. Prices are estimates as of 2026.
check sold prices for levis vintage big e 501 on eBay
Sources
- Levi Strauss & Co.: 85 Years of the Levi's Red Tab
- Levi Strauss & Co.: Levi's Tabs
- Levi Strauss & Co.: 501 Fab Facts, The Story of Selvedge
- Vintage Fashion Guild: Label Resource, Levi Strauss & Co.
- Heddels: Vintage Levi's 501 Jeans, The Ultimate Collector's Guide
- California Vintage Buyers: Are Old Levi's 501s Worth Anything? Real 2026 Prices
- California Vintage Buyers: What Is a Vintage Levi's Jacket Worth in 2026?
- Underpriced: Vintage Levi's Value Guide 2026
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Guides that mention Levi's
- 1970s Vintage Clothing: How to Date and Value ItDate and value 1970s clothing: hippie, prairie, disco and designer-jeans looks, polyester and Qiana, care labels from 1972, and 2026 price ranges.
- Vintage Clothing Condition Grading: Mint to Fair and What Each CostsThe dealer condition scale for vintage clothing (mint, excellent, very good, good, fair, poor), what each grade means and its typical price discount.
- How to Date Vintage Clothing by the LabelUse the laws, postcodes, fiber names and country names printed on a garment label to work out the earliest year it could have been made.
- How to Photograph, Measure and List Vintage ClothingA practical checklist for photographing, measuring and describing vintage clothing so it sells faster, gets found in search and avoids returns.
- Vintage Denim Values: What Old Levi's, Lee and Wrangler Sell ForReal 2026 sold-price ranges for vintage Levi's 501s, Type 1 to Type 3 jackets, Lee and Wrangler, plus the details that move a pair from $40 to $2,500.
- How to Authenticate and Date Vintage Levi'sRead the red tab, selvedge, patch, rivets, button stamps and care label to date vintage Levi's 501s and spot reissues sold as originals.
Related
- Lee Labels: History and How to Date ThemLee jeans and workwear history from H.D. Lee in Salina, Kansas: the 1913 Union-All, 1920s cowboy pants and 101Z zip fly, Lee Riders, and 2026 values.
- Wrangler Labels: History and How to Date ThemWrangler history for denim collectors: Blue Bell's 1943 purchase of the name, Rodeo Ben's 1947 jeans, why "Blue Bell" labels matter, and 2026 values.
- How to Date Vintage Clothing by the LabelUse the laws, postcodes, fiber names and country names printed on a garment label to work out the earliest year it could have been made.
- Reproduction vs Antique Clothing: How to TellUse fibres, fasteners, seam finishes, labels and silhouette to tell a real Victorian or Edwardian garment from a costume, revival dress or reproduction.